I use a degree wheel when I'm blueprinting the engine, and mark the damper from about 35 to 40 degrees before TDC. If you've got access to a delay-flash timing light, just set the readout to 36 degrees, and turn the distributor housing until the 0 mark lines up at 2500-3000 RPM. If the initial timing doesn't fall somewhere in the 12-15 degree range at idle after setting it that way, it will be necessary to rework the centrifugal advance travel.
My "stock-appearing" HEI distributors turn 7,000 RPM without spark scatter, outrun all the competition, and pass tech inspection checks. No, I'm not going to say how I do it- - - - some of my competitors might be lurking!
Jerry
Edit:
I have proved on numerous dyno runs that once the best timing setting is found, even one degree of over-advance robs massive amounts of power. We advance timing one degree at a time until max HP is reached, then record the power drop caused by one degree of over-advance. Go back to max power, and start retarding. It takes 5 degrees of timing retard to lose the same amount of power as ONE degree too much!
Over-advanced timing is not your friend. It robs power, causes detonation, and burns holes in pistons. Pistons are not cheaper than common sense!
Jerry
Last edited by Hotrod Lincoln; 12/20/2007 4:08 AM.
