I didn't read your other post that was mentioned. I gathered that you had gone through and pulled the fuses for the accessories and not found the problem. The best way to check to see if the alt is the source of the problem is to charge the battery and disconnect all wire to the alt. If the battery normally goes dead in X days and it doesn't this time, you will have found the problem.
Most of the parts house alt checkers won't catch a problem that will cause a slow drain.
If you look at the 14V from an alternator with an oscilloscope, you will not see a straight line at the 14 volt level. The voltage will have a slight ripple to it, above and below the 14volt line. A volt meter will not show this. If you have a bad diode, every third ripple will drop out. A voltmeter will still show nearly 14 volts and the battery will still be charging. On a car driven every day, you would never know there is a problem. The auto parts tester won't see the problem either.
The backward y stands for micro. It would read MicroAmps or one thousandths of an amp.
The 200 and 750 V scales are probably AC Volts. There should be a sine wave next to the V. Looks like an "S" laying on its side.
The hfe is for checking transistors. There should be a bunch of pin holes marked C,B and E. They will be in no particular order and stand for Collector, Base and Emitter.
Most low end digital volt meters do a poor job of checking current drains like you are trying to do. I know they are suppose to handle 10 Amps, but every one that I've had either blew fuses or melted the circuit board well before the 10Amp rating. If you take the back off you will find a small glass fuse for the current checking functions.
