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On the choke comment...I'm not familiar with the H/W so I don't know if it has any means to wire the choke open. The point was, that the bypass terminal, which is the little stud on the side of the starter switch will only be hot while the pedal is pushed down. This will not accomplish what you need for an electric choke.
To hot wire this particular style starter, you ideally need to bypass the foot activated switch and get to the buss or lug or whatever type of lead goes directly into the starter itself.
Sticking a jumper cable or large gauge wire onto this point would verify that the starter itself is capable of spinning without the influence of a switch that might be defective. This jumper cable would be one single cable of the two cables. It would be hooked to the positive post of the battery.
I can't recall what this starter setup looks like so it's hard to tell you where to hook your temporary cable.
The starter switch is so simple, I find it hard to believe it isn't working. My first oakie test would be to verify the battery is fully charged and properly connected with clean terminals to the starter AND properly grounded to frame and engine. When this is verified, use a bar or piece of wood as a lever mash the switch on the starter all the was down and hold it.
You will need a helper to use another bar or hammer to rap on the starter and see if you can get its attention, wake it up and see if it will turn.
If this test flops, it's time to pull the starter and give it a colonoscopy so to speak.
This refusal to spin on the starters part has nothing to do with any of your other temporary wiring. The starter and switch are very basic..they work or they don't.
Stuart
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