Ahh yes, the stall converter raises its ugly turbine again. A stall converter lets the motor revv into the cam's powerband easier. The "stall speed" is like slipping the clutch on a manual tranny to get a heavy load started moving. The converter slips until it reaches the stall RPM range. The problem is twofold: The vehicle's response below the stall speed can be "mushy" as the engine revvs until the converter "stalls". And while driving below the stall speed, the extra slippage generates heat in the transmission as well as wastes gas. Towing below the stall speed RPM with a stall converter will shorten the life of the converter/tranny. The trick is to use a converter that has a stall speed equal or less than your typical cruising RPM in top gear. That way the converter is "stalled" and not slipping while you're driving/towing.
A converter with a stall speed above 2400 RPM or so is going to be really noticable, especially with 3.07 gears. If you had 4.11s or something, you'd be above 2400 RPM at 40 MPH or greater. With 3.07s, you'll have to go a lot faster before a 2400 converter "stalls". And stall speed is related to engine torque output. The same converter will stall higher with a higher torque motor, and vice versa. This is why rear gear ratio is so important, cus it helps determine converter and cam selection.
Prolly a converter with a stall speed between 2000-2200 RPM would be good for your app. Combine that with a cam that has less than 220 duration. You may give up some top-end horsepower, but the truck will be more responsive around town or starting a load.
