You guys were right-that was the problem. No damage done. Took a couple of hours to get it apart and back together correctly but at least now it works. If there is a next time I will be more careful.
54 5-window, This was my first seal installation but I had read somewhere (I think in the Tech tips) that it was easiest done if the transmission was out so that the crank could drop a little when the bearing cap was removed. I would probably first try it with out removing the transmission if I had no other reason to have the transmission out. The hard part was loosening the bearing cap bolts- they were really torqued on there. But once they were off the upper half of seal pushed right out using the bottom half as a chaser.
It was a neoprene seal so that is what I replaced it with. I pushed the top half around the groove, dabbed a little sealer on each end, joined the bottom half and put the bearing cap back on. The seals have a correct side to face toward the engine so read the instructions. Torque specs called for 100-110 ft lbs. on the bearing cap bolts so you have to get your foot against something.
Pan gaskets are a lot of fun, too, especially the end pieces. I'm just hoping I slowed down the leaks a little. Read Oly's article in tech tips - he did a good job of explaining the procedure to replace the rear seal. Good luck with yours.
Pete
