Grant, just went out and looked a mine in the area you mentioned and the seal fits real good up there. At that point the door closes almost with a straight shot in to the pillar without any wiping motion like there is between the hinges. One thing comes to mine and that is the door should be flush with the cab all around the window. The upper frame of the door can be easily bent because of the leverage at this point and because the frame is not very ridged around the window opening. If your door edge is under the rain gutter at any point in stead of flush with the body, I would say that it’s been bent at some time. My wife’s new Sebring touring was leaking air around the front drivers door at the rear upper corner when you were at hi way speed. I put a shoe in the bottom and gave the rear upper corner a little push and that solved the leak. These doors are really pretty flexable and it doesn’t take much to tweak them.
Is Mazomanie, WI any where near Menomonee, WI?? I used to drive up there to snowmobile at a my bosses cabin, he had a couple hundred acres of forest refuge for the deer.
Typically WS adhesive is a contact cement Tim. Coat both sides of the joint and when it is dry to the touch it's ready for assembly. I say again, ya got one chance get it right the first time. If you have to pull it up and reposition it (that is if you can with out tearing the rubber), you might as well clean it and start over. Be careful cleaning the rubber, some solvents will damage the smooth outer layer of the rubber and expose the foam core.
So I guess nobody else must have ever had a problem with their WS being pulled loose from the door by being pinched between the cab pillar. Must be one of those freak occurrences that I’m always running into.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
