The problem with head bolts is that unless you checked the torque before the bolts were removed, you don't know their condition. If they have been over-torqued, they have lost their elasticity from being over-torqued and stretched. Not many people spring for new bolts when they rebuild an engine, but after reading the tech sheets on the ARP website
link here I became a believer in using new bolts.
Pushrods, with some bent, replace them all. As for the casting shift, I don't know. I would ask the shop. Crank: if you are hauling it, I would go ahead and remove it. You can position it so it won't get beat around. (I hauled my disassembled 235 in the trunk of my Bonneville to and from the shop. Put 2x4 blocks around the crank.)
Biggest thing I learned as a mechanic was that when you send something out for machine work, clean it up first. Some shops charge extra for cleaning beyond the tank, especially for carboned heads. Before I remove the valves, I chuck an orange cup brush in the drill and clean up the domes. Keeps you from scratching the valve seats and cleans the valve end at the same time.
What all are you doing to this 292?
