The single MC will do just fine as long as you keep your system maintained. Be sure to keep your parking brake in good order.
Be sure to keep the system clean and free of contaminants, dirt, water and oil are your enemies. You shouldn't have to worry about flushing the system, removing the MC and all the wheel cylinders will allow almost all of the old fluid to drain out, what remains will be flushed when you bleed.
If you don't have them, get some flare nut wrenches so you don't round the corners of the fittings. If you have to use penetrating oil to break loose a fitting, rinse it down with denatured alcohol. I have also used a propane torch on the tough ones, but you have to remember that brake fluid is flammable. I try to have a helper with a squirt bottle handy, just in case.
Unless you're experienced, don't take apart all the brakes at the same time. Do one side, then the other. That way if you can't recall how something should go back together, you can look at the other side for reference.
It is easy to twist the steel lines, and you will probably have to replace some of them. You can buy the line with the fittings on at the parts store, but you will need a bender to keep from kinking the line. The spring benders don't cost much. If you have too much line, put a loop in it where it won't cause problems.
I always figure on a quart of fluid, and use most of it when bleeding. Don't save a bottle that is less than half full, it will absordb moisture from the air.
For bleeding get a piece of clear tubing from the hardware store. I don't recall what size that fits snug over the bleeder screw. I put the other end in a small clear pop or water bottle. Set it up or hold it so the fluid has to run uphill some to get in the bottle, it's easier to see the air bubbles.
Adjust the brakes per the manual. They need to be even both front and back.
Also, replace the springs while you have things apart. They can break at the worst moment.
