Prior to installing the Protecto Wrap/Peel-N-Seal or whatever the brand is you are using, on the floor of my '66 Chevy C10, I spent numerous hours removing the factory sound deadening from the floor board and firewall. In some areas, it was not stuck to the metal, in others it was, very well, I might add. In some areas, the original was very hard and brittle and in others it was very soft and pliable. Some areas were easily removed and other areas very difficult to remove. I used paint thinner, a painters scraper and a lot of elbow grease. I discovered a mixed bag of results with the existing sound deadening.
As far as trying to remove the new sound deadening, I want something that is going to go on and stay in place. When making holes in it, I cut out the material, prior to drilling throught the metal. I suggest this route anytime you are drilling through the floor, to avoid gumming up the drill bit. The material is designed to stick to what it is applied to, as well as itself. There was no odor, even when I heated it with a heat gun to cover the radical contours.
Working with a narrow roll, is easier to apply than the wider rolls, whereas handling and laying is more managable. Gluing anything to the flooring substrate, that can absorb moisture, is not a good idea, since it can not be removed, if it gets wet. I removed the carpet and jute insulation, that was glued to the floor with contact adhesive by the previous owner. It was obvious that it had been wet before. Laying the carpet loose or with double-stick carpet tape is a better solution, whereas it can be removed, if it gets wet.
I have used Dynamat and Fatmat in the past and the pieces are very large and difficult to work with. I prefer the narrow rolls because they are easier to lay and manipulate. I also suggest covering the seams with foil-face duct tape, to ensure a seamless application. I hope your project turns out as satisfactory as mine.
Tony
