You can get at it all from the front and underneath... it does help to be a bit of a contortionist! When we were totally rewiring, we pulled the panel off of the front and worked from the front and underneath. Not simple but doable. The rewire came with all new guage bulbs so we took a couple of the old ones and hooked them up to the turnsingle arrows which were there but not used as the truck had no turn signals.
Biggest pain was popping panel back in place. The new bulbs aren't quite sung so kept popping out.
In retrospect, shoul dhave put in a new odometer while it was out... oh well.