I second what Guitplayer posted.
The valve covers spread out at the bottom and need to be brought back to straight lines along the sides.
The stud holes get mashed out of shape and need to be brought back to where they belong.

The side cover bolt holes become dished in. They need to be hammered flat with a body hammer.
They side cover can become twisted.

The best case scenario would be if you had a bare block on an engine stand to do your tinsmith work.

I like to put both of these parts on the block without gaskets so than I can check for gaps with a feeler gauge.
I find that this step is way more important than what kind of gasket and sealant is being used for having leak free valve and side covers.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission