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| | | Forums66 Topics128,086 Posts1,056,101 Members48,434 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2026 Posts: 15 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2026 Posts: 15 | I came up with an opinion to replace the 6.50/7.50-20 dual 10 lug split rims, while using the same original hubs. I have researched a fair bit before posting this, and I haven't seen it anywhere. It's not for everyone, but I'm not sticking with the original look anyway. And it's only single wheel after... big single. Simply put, I cut the bead off the original rim and fitted it into a Dayton rim. Then it will be professionally welded. 😎 Actually the cut is ~2" from the bead, just at the lip. A person could cut the lip off too, in order to slide it further in to adjust the offset. I found the lip helped to center and square things up, even though they fit perfectly. And I'm happy with the off set... for now. It will work on the 10.00 Dayton. or I might go with an 11.00-22.5 on the rear. For the front I have a couple 255-55-20 that came off my wife's Ford Explorer. I also have a pair of 275-55-20 that I could put on the back if I can muster up more rims. I have two 22.5" rims and tires. My 10.00-20s are still a split ring setup using a tube. The 22.5 is better being a one piece tubeless set up. A lower profile 22.5 might look better?, but I'll use what I have for now. I'm still fighting with rusted on tires. Removing the front rims off the hubs was very difficult. I almost rage quit I've actually considered this. It's still not out of the question either | | |
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