Looks like the Jim Carter instructions are for a 1 wire alternator and you are planning to use a 3 (or 2) wire alternator.
In either case, the large wire (#10) from the stud on the back side of the alternator should connect to the stud on the ammeter where the ignition switch connects.
The other stud on the ammeter needs to connect to the battery. The easiest way to connect it is to run a #10 wire from the ammeter to where the battery cable connects to the stomp starter switch.
If you are using a 3 wire alternator ...
Connect the #1 pin on the slip on connector on the back of the alternator to a lamp (I use a 12 volt LED). The other wire on the lamp (the stripe end of the LED) connects to 12 volts that is only on when the key is on.
Connect the #2 pin on the slip on connector on the back of the alternator to somewhere in your wiring up under the dashboard that is on when the key is on. That wire tells the alternator how much voltage is actually being delivered to your wiring harness and regulates the output of the alternator to get somewhere around 14 volts to the devices in your truck.
A 1 wire alternator (and connecting the #2 pin directly to the stud on the back of the alternator) does a poor job of supplying proper voltage because it regulates to 14 volts or so at the large output stud and doesn't allow for any voltage loss in your wiring harness.
Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 04/12/2026 10:50 PM. Reason: spelling
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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