1950 had Huck brakes. There are two adjusting wheels for each wheel cylinder.
I have found that the best way to deal with the difficulty of bleeding that style of brakes is to adjust both adjuster wheels on each wheel cylinder until you can barely rotate the tire. This will take all of the slack out of the brakes which makes it so that less brake fluid is required for the pushing the shoes into engagement with the drums.
Without tightly adjusted brakes, the master cylinder piston runs out of fluid before fluid fills the empty wheel cylinder.
Once you finish bleeding the brakes and have a hard pedal, back off each wheel cylinder adjusting wheels until the tires can turn with little effort.
Once you have driven if for a while, the shoes will wear until they match the arc of the drums and they will spin freely.
You won't read this method in any manual, but it works like a champ.

Last edited by 52Carl; 03/03/2026 2:21 AM.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission