Ditto on the pre-lube, but you'll need to turn the crankshaft by hand a few revolutions while the oil pressure is present. That makes the pre-oil a 2-person job. Lifters are only capable of filling with oil while they're "unloaded"- - - -sitting on the base circle of the cam lobe. A lifter with any valve spring pressure on it will remain in the collapsed position and rattle for a while after startup until it fills with oil. Unless you can find a set of "new old stock" hydraulic lifters, you will probably be disappointed with the performance of a hydraulic cam. The offshore-made new lifters that are available these days are notorious for leaking down and rattling after a very short time, and some of them simply refuse to work when brand new. I'm a little crippled, but I think I could outrun anyone who wanted to GIVE me a truckload of new stovebolt hydraulic lifters. "Your mileage may vary" but some people insist on peeing on an electric fence to learn for themselves! It's possible to sleeve stovebolt lifter bores down a few thousandths and use Ford/MOPAR/AMC hydraulic lifters, but custom pushrods also have to be fabricated to do that.
Jerry
