Thanks! I followed my wife's thought on this. She said she would be inclined to glue all 4 layers up, press it flat with a smooth piece of board until it set up and then set some boards on it overnight. Then, carefully and slowly make the bends first to match the metal cross-bar and last to form the bends at the front (since those are less severe). I did the same thing with the back section, however if your back section doesn't fit correctly with the cutout in the metal cross-bar, trim as needed using a razor blade and metal straightedge. I had to trim mine from about 8 inches in from each edge across to the other side. Which I don't exactly understand. I made a copy from the old one I had made around 45 years ago and followed it exactly but this time it didn't mate up just right and didn't fit. Mate the second piece with the front part (which will have the cross-bar attached and clamped in place) outside of the cab. Once they fit, adjustments in the cab are easier if you take your time and are patient moving parts in/out. Her thought was to coat with shellac, paint, etc after the assembly had been in the cab long enough to take the shape I wanted.

After letting it sit for a couple of days I can tell you 4 layers of this stuff laminated with the wood glue I mentioned are more solid than I expected. In fact, they feel about like I'd expect a 3/32" thick piece of plywood to feel and I don't know if it will be as easy to mold into shape after time has hardened it. About like a checkerboard. I like the strength and the waterproof indoor/outdoor nature of it all quite a bit, however it makes me wonder if molding this in place after the glue has just set up for 8 hours or so would be the wise way to go. I'll check to see if making it wet allows for more flexibility and if it recovers strength after that. I'm also wondering if with the added strength only 3 layers laminated up would be okay.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end