I will “third” DragSix and Otto’s advice here for your situation. One possible caveat….
I think avoiding “while I’m at it” snowball effect is pretty good general advice, but obviously varies a lot situation by situation. Case in point, I recently did a front motor mount replacement, but it would have been fairly absurd to not replace the front crank seal while I was in there. The leak there is what made the motor mount fail to begin with.
In your case, while you have the head off, might as well take a good look at the condition of the cylinder walls, how much of a ridge there is at the top, etc. You could even get a quick and dirty idea of ring seal by applying some liquid to the top of pistons….might be good to do it in pairs with pistons somewhere near top of cylinder where taper is likely to be the worst. Then, time/compare low long each cylinder holds that liquid before it leaks down. Look for outliers. If all do a reasonably good job of holding liquid, call it good enough.
Someone else can probably do a better job of detailing the “test” I’m describing. Basic idea is to lend some confidence the engine will be a good runner when you button it back up.
