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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,154 Posts1,056,863 Members48,456 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,505 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,505 | There is a possibility the original seal was staked to keep it in place. I think i mentioned that in my first post. You will see a stake mark in cases or maybe you won't...maybe the seal got replaced with a more modern one and somebody else took care of this when that was done. Today's seals won't need staking...they're designed to be a wee bit larger than the opening into which they fit and they're made with a slight bit more precision than those of 70 years ago. So if there is a staking burr in your part, it should be filed away using a rounded file or such...just enough to make the metal smooth so the bearing and/or new seal piece won't be damaged when installed. Then apply sealer to the outer circumference of the new seal piece and you'll be fine. Important to remember the axle seal isn't under pressure. Gear oil flows to and away from the bearing during normal driving/turning/movement/sloshing/etc. but no pump shoots it over there under pressure. Hope that helps.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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