Not to answer Jerry's question for him or anything, but here is the inch/lb wrench I bought a few years ago. I don't know how exact it is but for steering gear adjustment, work on electric motors, ceramic disc faucets...anything that requires an inch/lb wrench it has worked well for me:

https://tinyurl.com/ykxcs7a4

On the steering gear adjustment (or actually to determine the high point...which is the important thing), you will be able to watch the needle start moving up as resistance increases and the needle will peak on the scale when you hit that point you're searching. Alternatively you can jack the truck up so that both wheels are off the ground. Leave your wheels on and your steering linkage connected. Slowly turn the wheel to the left until it stops. Mark a spot on the wheel with masking tape and match that to a stationary reference point. Then slowly turn the wheel to the right until it stops, counting the number of turns it takes (watch the masking tape as it passes the reference point). Divide the number of turns by 2 and turn the wheel back to the left that number of turns. This will give you a "pretty good" idea of where the high point is...but it won't be exact and for $20 on Amazon I'd just buy the wrench. To do the best job of adjustment you need to get 3 things right...the adjustment of the worm gear bearings, the "snugness" of the sector gear to the ball nut and the centered position of the sector gear to the ball nut. Important note: if you're doing this with the drag link removed please don't let your steering wheel bang into the stops at either end of travel. You can mess up your ball guides by doing this.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end