Others with more experience may add more or even question my experience, but….you might gain something from this….
Per below my points are:
-mixing huck and anything in my view is questionable, the volume differences likely are too great to have a viable system.
-don’t go 1/2 in/part way, don’t accept “ok”, safety systems are either 100% right or not.
The longer story:
My 46 1/2 ton it came to me with huck front/new bendix rear brakes (had a new Currie rear end put behind a T5), pressured by a tired single zone master cylinder with reasonably good condition rubber flex lines.
It was not a good setup, period. Spongy pedal, long travel, needed a strong leg, etc… basically: just say no.
I installed new front huck brake cylinders, springs, FF shoes… nah, still not right… so…
Next I went with a 1” bore corvette style disk/disk mstr, sourced (thanks to stovebolt) and swapped out my front hucks for 54 bendix backing plates, new bendix front wheel cylinders, new springs, new drums (mounted on the 54 hubs and turned), new lug studs, and new tapered roller bearings(old bearings were scored).
Put residual pressure valves 1 front and 1 rear in lines as low and close to master as possible, plus an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear line. Front 2 flex and rear flex changed to DOT stainless braid/teflon lines (ie:no rubber).
What I have is (for me) a solid full bendix braking system, very solid reliable pedal, requires only moderate force, in tested panic stop the rears (prop valve adjusted) only starting to lock up. Pedal travel is right on, no pull on steering even in heavy braking test.
Then I added the front (anti) sway bar, helps a lot in turn/braking situations… but that’s another story…
Chuck
