Lets get this truck wired correctly, THEN we will troubleshoot which component is the problem if there still is a problem.
55.2 went to 12V. The points need to be protected during run but the starter needs full voltage during crank. So Chevy had a "bypass" system. About 4 different bypasses depending on motor and year and car or truck, electric solenoid or foot stomp. In 55.2-59 there were several different ignition switches used on trucks and a few more for cars. Regardless of 6 or V8 they all have a bypass/ballast resistor. Use only an externally resisted coil. The guys have covered this so cutting to the chase...........
1. For 6 cyl stomp start truck, you had, and have, the wrong ignition switch. But that's OK, finding the correct ORIGINAL ON/OFF switch is almost impossible. There are several switches like the one you show, which is called a V8 switch because V8's did not use stomp start. They had solenoids and used a spring loaded key position "START" to energize the solenoid.... and some may have a push button.
2. There are "Universal" ON/OFF switches if you want that or you can wire your switch.
Here is an example of a ubiversal igniyion switch.
To wire what you have... you will only use OFF (key vertical) and ON (key at first position CW)
WIRE...
Battery pos to ignition switch "BAT" terminal.
Ignition switch IGN 1/ACC terminal to one side of ballast resistor.
Other side of ballast resistor to coil positive.
Starter stomp switch side terminal to coil positive.
Coil neg to distributor.
NO OTHER wires for now.
Let us know the test start result. You have said on several posts you cleaned and inspected wires and connections so...... I suggest you DO NOT do any wiring after wiring per above until you get suggestions on how to troubleshoot properly using a few jumpers and/or meter. Get rid of any extra wires/jumpers flying around/connected to, this ignition system.
