Thank you all for your advice.

The rear shoes are adjusted. I replaced the rear shoes before starting this project. There is no slot for manual adjustment, so I got them close and finished them with backing up and stopping. I just now jacked the rear up and confirmed the shoes do scuff when turning the wheel by hand.

Upside down bleeders? I will not claim to be immune to making such mistakes, but, this time, I do have them pointing up.

I found reference to a pin to hold the combination valve in place during bleeding, but I found that reference after my bleeding, and my combination valve did not come with a pin or with instructions for one. I don't know what I can do with that now. My 1978 C20 has a combination valve. I have twice driven it home after losing the rear fluid through a failed wheel cylinder. The red brake light on the dash stays on for a while, presumably because that rod burying to one side. The light eventually does go out which tells me that the rod will eventually recenter itself. Just a guess. I do not have a light wired for this 1950 GMC, so I will not have that clue.

I like how the brakes are working, except for the pedal mushiness. I can go some distance from my house by 25 mph roads, so I will drive for a while then try a rebleed.


1950 GMC 100 Panel Truck, 1958 270,
3-spd Saginaw with BW OD,
3.73 12 Bolt Differential from a 1966 C10,
Front Disc Brakes
Hill Holder
Bought it in pieces 9-1976, driving since 6-1978
Follow in the DITY