Thank you all for the advice and the support on this effort to correctly mount cab onto new frame, given that the cab has undergone extensive sheet metal replacement (by this rookie), the probablility of something not fitting right could be high. With your chain of notes, I THINK I have it "in the bag". Here is the status:
If you look at the first couple of pictures from May, 2021, where I was test fitting the replacement floor on the new frame, I was aware back then that the aligment of the holes on the driver side rear of the floor was not correct between the underlying rear cross member and the 2 holes on the floor. They overlapped to the point that I could not cleanly slide the original bolts through the triple layer of floor, rear cross member and new frame (this frame does not have shackles).
Without going into too much detail, I wound up being able to square the cab by elongating those 2 holes on the back of the driver side floor, towards the seat riser. I did not have to "hack up" the fancy frame. See third picture.
I did have to slice a bit off of the center of the kick boards that span the transmission cover, in order to clear the Tremec 6 speed (see 4th and 5th picture). I suspect that I will have to do more of this before we call it "dun".
So while I am waiting for the restoration shop to decide if they will take me on for doing the bottoms of the doors and returning cab epoxy primered and ready for mockup, I will be following the Stovebolt documented process of attaching upper and lower baffles and the inner and outer fenders (nice and loose), so that I can install and adjust the hood (see final picture).
Let me close with a question: What are the implicatins of NOT adhering to the cab floor to top-of-frame clearances of 1.83 - 1.89 in the front and .76 - .82 in the rear? I know I can achieve it, but I am curious about the consequences of not achieving it.
