When you get these,or even if you repair your own make sure to use some antisieze compound on the screw adjusters, front and rear.

If these freeze up you run the risk of stripping the little nubbins on the wheels in the backing plate that engage the big cast gear that rides on the end of the wheel cylinder. If that happens you won't be able to back the brakes off enough to get the drums off without a fight. If you can get one loose then back that shoe off completely and you may be able to get the drum off. This also speaks to having the drums turned to get rid of the ridge at the edge. Then you have a better chance of getting the drums off when the adjusters go bad. But DO NOT let the machinist grind the shoe area of the drum. These are NLA from any source and you want to preserve them as long as possible even if they're a bit scored or warped. I've found that if you get them good and hot on a down hill they will go back to round if they're warped. When they are hot DO NOT apply the emergency brake. That's how they get warped in the first place.

I have used anti-sieze on the pistons also, which are aluminum in a steel or cast iron bore, because there are no seals to keep water out of the interior of the cylinder. I don't know how it gets in there but I do know in a damp climate the aluminum will fester and seize on the cast cylinder. Then that shoe stops working. If you slam on the brakes on a gravel road and only three wheels skid then you know which wheel cylinder has seized.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.