Yes, I was pleasantly surprised to see the somewhat unusual PCV system intact.
Wiring the engine compartment is the first priority, since the harness is in terrible shape (full replacement of the wiring will wait until I assess the running condition of the engine). I'm unsure about staying with the 6V positive ground system or converting to 12V negative ground since I want to use the truck as a local driver. If I were worried about originality, I would stay with the 6V system, as I have with my '53 Chevy. Pros and cons, as usual. I do intend to stay relatively stock overall, but for safety items (e.g., brakes), etc.
Here's a bit more info as I am surveying the state of affairs, so to say.
Fuel-system: the plan is to replace the Rochester B with a Carter 574S that I picked up, while looking for a proper Zenith 228AV11. I need to drop the under-bed tank and see if it is serviceable. The filler neck is missing (photo), so the tank is wide open at present (well, plugged with a rag). For now, I will get running with a portable marine tank that I use for that purpose. Is the filler neck for the 47-'48 3/4 ton unique? I've not located a replacement listed for this truck, so I need to look for alternatives, it seems.
Brakes: the right rear wheel cylinder is leaking, so there is no pedal at the moment. I've read the Tech Tip on the Eaton HO50/52 carrier swap that includes some info on brake conversion. I've also seen some of the disk brake conversion kits that may be a practical way to move away from the Huck brakes. I need to research options more before deciding a course of action.
Wheels/tires: the wheels currently mounted are later model 16" with General radials. I have a full set of 15" split wheels that came with the truck. But I'm a bit confused about whether they would have been original to the truck. Looking at the '47 Chevy VIK from the GM Heritage Center archives, it looks like the equivalent (5800 lb GVWR) 3600 would have been fitted with 17" wheels. I'm also uncertain if the 15" wheels would clear later brakes (e.g., '68-'72 as referenced in the HO52 Tech Tip). More research to do.
Rust: fortunately, fairly minor from what I've seen so far. There is a small area that should be patched in the bed, but it's in a flat side panel, so no real challenge. The other two areas that need sheet metal patches are best seen in the cab, where the floor meets the inner side panels (both sides, see photos).
Glass: the driver's side windshield is partially fogged, and the driver's window is badly cracked. A quick check with the usual sources shows a complete kit with seals to be reasonably affordable. Uncertain whether I will go non-stock with green or gray tinted windows or stay stock with clear glass.
Which brings me to the slippery slope of project scope creep. When I first saw the truck last February, I thought the paint looked like sun-faded Pimpernel Scarlet. In fact, it's an orange repaint, with signs of blue paint underneath (photo). The firewall suggests the original color was probably Pimpernel Scarlet, but I need to do more forensics to see if that's correct. So why does the discussion of glass get me to paint color? I'm sure there is some rust removal that will be apparent once the windshield and rear glass are removed. Then how much do I paint? And what color?
Fun stuff: over the years, there have been some minor "customizations" that give me a chuckle. The fan belt must have been replaced with a non-standard length at some point. To get things to "fit," a second generator upper mount strap was added, and moved to a higher water pump bolt (fifth photo), resulting in a double-jointed mount. I think I will fix that.
One of the freeze plugs was replaced with an adapter and an electric temperature sender. That's all that remains. No signs of the gauge or wiring. But there is an aftermarket mechanical temperature gauge attached to the steering column with a wrapped and tied rag. Seriously!
I will post more as I find it as well as an update on the engine condition. Comments and suggestions are always welcome!
