Pic #1 shows the 1/4" plywood exact patterns I made from the glass from Auto City Classics. This is one complete side. Pic 2&3 I used these to pre-form the run channel for the sliders and the shape of the forward stationaries. Place channel on pattern and with rubber mallet pound the channel around leaving the extra several inches. This makes installing the channel in the window frame SO much easier. Eight channels pre-formed ready for install. (not shown) One thing I forgot to mention is the old channel was screwed in in several places. IIRC there are 2 at the top near the stationary glass. These 2 are pretty close together and will be the beginning and the ending of the channel.(ends butted together). You will screw one end in then work your way around the frame using your pattern around the edges with the mallet to bend the channel. Am I making any sense? There may be a couple of other screws but not completely sure. When you get back to the beginning it will take some finesse to cut the steel channel with good sharp snips to butt up to the other end. Install that screw. (the screws are in the bottom of the channel)
Pics 4&5 I knew I would goof up somewhere! After I used the patterns to form the run channels, I cut the outside 2 inches off to use for clamping. These 2 pics show gluing/clamping the square spacer rubber in place. That is X4. #6 pic shows using the pattern to glue/clamp the run channel in. note the extra tail before cutting and screwing in place.
Pic7 shows the Stainless glass pull installed on the leading edge of the slider. Glass setting tape, water with a drop of dish detergent sprayed on and an easy hand with mallet gets it done. I had to buy 2 of the slider locks shown bottom left, Had all 4 but 2 were badly rust pitted.
7&8 also show the inner trim installed. This was the scariest part of the whole install! There is a small 1/4" X 1/4" sheet metal angle screwed to the bottom edge of the frame about a 1/4" in from the inside. The inner trim has a formed lip on the inside that hooks over that angle which pulls the trim up tight to the frame. You start from the bottom but scary part is that it is VERY difficult to get that trim hooked to the angle. The reason being you have that 1/2" rubber spacer and the run channel in there and it is a VERY tight fit. I read on another forum that the poster had such a hard time getting the trim on that he just used some screws and screwed it to the frame. I knew that wasn't going to work. So with my trusty squirt bottle and soapy water I wet the trim and run channel a little then took the soft mallet to it starting at one end and drove it down into place. And it was not just tapping either, I had to really pound on it! Did I say that was scary?! Install the 4 or 5 screws on the sides and top and that was that. I did have one trim that was thin due to rust on the inside that split when it was driven on but it was less than an inch long and in a corner. Have to look for it to see it so it stays like that. Last couple of pics of finished product. I'm glad Clayton talked me into the original glass. It is really sharp looking.
~ Richard 1952 GMC Army Ambulance "Building the Dream" The story begins here in the DITY Gallery Follow the build in the Project Journals (If you can't wait, the "final pictures" and details are in Panels & Burbs) First vehicle-1967 Chevy short bed pickup. Sold when got married | 1953 Chevy pickup restored-sold to purchase Toy Hauler trailer | 1964 GMC long bed Pickup 305 big block V/6 bought to restore with son and his 14 yr old son
| 1953 Chevy pickup restored-sold to purchase Toy Hauler trailer | 1964 GMC long bed Pickup 305 big block V/6 bought to restore with son and his 14 yr old son
