Now with the cab in the proper location on the frame and bolted down, I verified the spacing between the cab and the top of the frame using the Truck Factory Assembly Manual.
I installed the radiator and radiator support. I left the radiator support stainless steel carriage bolts loose in case it had to move around some during reassembly.
I was ready to hang the doors to fit and had already reworked all the hinges to tighten them up. Both hinges need the spring clip replaced as they were broke or missing.
Almost all the parts on my truck that I reworked, including the rear end and the front axle and associated parts, were wire brushed with either a 7 in wire brush on a large heavy grinder or a 4" grinder. I took the paint off all the way back to bare metal. I also utilized a bench grinder with a wire brush on smaller parts that I could hold to work on them. Depending on how rusty each part was and were it was located, I used rust converter or rusty metal primer.
The passenger door fit good without any real modification. The driver's door was a different story. The radius at the top of the door was different from the cab. I ground the edge of the door to make the gap a consistent radius with the cab. The assembly manual says the typical door gap is 1/8 plus or minus .062. I was happy with the what I had. With the vertical door gap in the front similar to the passenger side, the back edge of the door had no gap. I ground the hemmed edge of door until I got a similar gap to the front gap. Only issue now was in some places along this edge, I had ground thru the hemmed edge. I tig welded the edge of the door and ground it down to put the hem back together.
