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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,030 Posts1,055,428 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,004 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,004 | Agree with Otto. No reason to use engine paint that needs high temp curing on the sheet metal of the engine bay. I use Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black over epoxy primer for the whole chassis including the engine bay (inner fenders and such. The firewall is body color like the factory did it. I just bought a quart of it and used my spray gun rather than rattle cans, although have used a few of those for small items that needed painting. One thing you have to be careful of is the cure time. If you don't follow instructions and put on a second coat too soon it will wrinkle.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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