Use a piece of aluminum plate about an inch thick, sized to bolt to the bottom of the intake, and drill it for a couple of pieces of 1/2 inch stainless steel tubing. Plumb the tubing to the ports in the Fenton headers so exhaust gas can circulate back and forth through the plate. You can't plumb the exhaust gas directly to the aluminum- - - -it will erode very quickly. Drop me a pm with your email address and I can provide a sketch with the basic layout of the heat plate. Water heat is a waste of time- - - -when you need manifold heat the most is right after startup- - - -when the coolant isn't up to operating temperature.
Jerry
I'll send you a PM Jerry- thanks. Cutting and flaring stainless is something I have yet to tackle- and it doesn't sound fun. I'm guess that the flaring/cutting tools that I have will not handle stainless?
This might be the easiest roue, if that thin plate in the pic is steel.
Heat plate will help.
My 2 cents: I was running Fenton cast headers with pipes and plate on stock intake. Back to stock exhaust manifold, can't tell any difference in power but has better cold drivability.
I'm sure that the stock setup provides WAY more heat to the intake...I'm not surprised that it drives better in the cold. I don't want to re-do my exhaust (I love the way it sounds right now), so the Fenton split exhaust must stay!
