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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,142 Posts1,056,782 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 1,513 | I got way down this rabbit hole last year planning and scheming but didn’t end up purchasing or installing.
My theory was to knock the ball studs out of everything and have arms reamed for the old Fjord style rod ends. The 11/16 ones. Speedway will sell you internally threaded tube in about any length you want. End up with adjustable tie rod and drag link. Could all be done relatively cheaply…not sure on the price of machining.
Anyone see any problems with that approach? IMO the easiest way with the least machining is to grind off the balls at the neck then drill and taper ream using Moog components as listed in a tech tip. Here's what I did: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...Main=128898&Number=873426#Post873426And here's the tech tip I went by: https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/draglink_adjustable.html
1952 1300 Canadian 1/2 ton restomod You Tube | | |
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