You cannot adjust the front clip until you adjust the hood to fit the cab. You will have to get the fenders as low as the loose bolts will allow.
I recommend that you completely remove the bolts which hold the inner fenders to the toe board. This will allow you to more easily lower the fenders.
Before you try to adjust the hood, measure and adjust the cab floor-to-frame gaps as per The Manual at all four corners. Start with the front cab mounts first.
The hood gap at the rear needs to be parallel to the cowl all the way across. If it is too close in the center than the outside edges, you need to lower the radiator support by removing shims under the support until the hood gap is parallel.
If the gap in the center of the rear of the hood is further away from the cowl than the outside edges, then you will need to add shims under the radiator support.
Once you get the hood gap parallel, tighten the hinge bolts inside of the cab.
You will then need to place a 4" wood block between the hood nose and the hood latch. (Make sure the hood latch bolts are loose befor you lower the hood.)
Have an assistant hold down on the rear center of the hood while you are inside the cab loosening those hinge bolts. Once the bolts are loose, the rear of the hood will lower until the rear of the hood contacts the rubber strip on the cowl. Tighten the bolts while your assistant is holding the hood down.
Put the hinge springs on.
Tighten the latch bolts just enough to take out the slop, but allow some movement of the latch. push the latch all the way to the rear. Close the hood. This will center the latch.
Open the hood. Move the latch toward the front of the track 1/16" and tighten that latch bolts.
Your hood is now adjusted and will require no further adjustment.

Check back in once you get the cab gaps to specs, and the hood fully adjusted and I can walk you through adjusting the fenders.

Last edited by 52Carl; 04/30/2023 12:18 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission