Thanks for the in site.
Bill, it still has the generator installed. Will that be an issue? The coil says 6v, is that an issue? Another question I have is the headlight switch. Would that need to be changed out to a 12v switch as well? None of the lights work, could that be a bad switch?
I'm still up in the air on converting it back to 6v. I've read pros and cons about the issue here on the forum. I guess it's personal preference. What's your take?
When you redid your harness, did you get your wire locally or the internet?
It is possible to use a 12v generator and external voltage regulator, but given the small electrical load that you plan to have it is much easier to convert to 12v using a GM 10si alternator that has an internal regulator. Some people like the "1 wire" variety, but I prefer the 3 wire type. Just 2 more wires to run and it gives you a "ALT" light and voltage sensing back under the dash instead of just at the output of the alternator. Do you know if your generator is 6v or 12v? How about the voltage regulator (should be mounted on the driver's side firewall)?
The 6v coil either needs to be replaced with a "12v, no ballast resistor required" coil or the starter switch needs to had a stud on the side
(click here) to wire around a ballast resistor which you probably don't have either.
Do some troubleshooting before you replace the headlight switch. Make sure voltage is available on the "bat" connection. If not, fix that before replacing the switch. Classic Parts sells both 6V and 12V headlight switches for your truck. The big difference is the rheostat value for dimming the dash lights and the self-resetting circuit breaker for the headlights.
