The bezel is crimped in a few spots which holds the assembly together. Using a small screwdriver, carefully pry open the crimps. Once the bezel, glass and inner trim are removed the gauge is visible. To remove the gauge, the adjacent gauges need need be loosened. There are two tabs (visible in the picture) that are behind the adjacent gauges and will prevent you from removing the gauge.

When you reassemble Some of the reproduction gauges are made slightly thicker and the needle gets caught on the inner trim piece inhibiting the needles movement, making the gauge look like it’s not functioning. If you find this condition, a gentle push with your fingers will give you the additional clearance you need to keep it from binding. Mind you I do mean gentle as it moves easily and you don’t want to distort the inner trim piece. Once you have determined the needle moves freely, reassemble the rest of the cluster. The first time I installed the bezel, I used a screwdriver and a small hammer to crimp the bezel to the cluster and I felt it jared the cluster too much. The second time (yes, it took two times to get it right) I was able to use a needle nose pliers to get the crimps in. Protect the chrome from getting marred. Maybe some other “Bolters” have some other ideas on how to crimp the bezel on to the cluster. Now reinstall the cluster and hopefully it works!
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Last edited by Phak1; 08/05/2022 12:01 PM. Reason: Additional info

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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