That is exaggerated orange peel and Kevin is right...the recoat timing is very important. Actually what I've learned about rattle can paint which incorrectly and falsely calls itself "enamel" today is that you're much better letting the first coat dry several days longer than the maker says and then apply the second coat. Usually I'll set the part outside in the heat for a few days. Don't lightly sand before applying the second coat, though. You want the skin of the "enamel" first layer to remain intact. The second layer will work better and I'll explain why in a bit. When you scuff it, you guarantee the second coat will soften that first layer more than it should. Why? I explained this here before, but a few people will usually tell me I have no idea what I'm talking about. And I've only been painting for ~60 years, so maybe they're right. The new enamel of today contains lacquer thinners...the same stuff that caused lacquer to no longer be used by body shops. It also may contain the same exact stuff used in paint stripper/remover...and that is for a purpose. If you don't believe me, look up the data sheets for the paint you're using. Enamel should only be thinned with mineral spirits, but you'll find a lot more in there and possibly no mineral spirits at all or mineral spirits modified with other solvents like toluene and now called something different. These cause the paint to "skin" rapidly (because some of them dry so fast) but then they dry internally much slower...some will take several days. Then when you apply a second coat the solvents naturally try to blend in with the first...even if it has become totally dry. But unlike genuine lacquer (which works very well under that scheme), you only cause the first layer to go all wonky if it hasn't totally dried, because unlike lacquer some of the things in the first coat won't play well with the 2nd coat. Now I mentioned some of the solvents in today's "enamel" are the same solvents used in paint remover/stripper. Why on earth would they put those in there? Because by doing so they've produced a paint that will "grab" what is beneath it...that is it will dissolve enough of the first layer so that the second layer can hold. But...they'll also cause that first layer to do almost exactly what it will do when you apply a coat of stripper...dissolve and wrinkle if it isn't completely dry.
