RUN- - - -do not walk away from a "rebuilt" carburetor. They're assembled from a bunch of mismatched bits and pieces and the odds of getting a good one are approximately equal to finding a chicken with lips. You have a very simple flooding problem, caused by either a bad needle valve, a float full of gasoline, dirt in the fuel, or "all of the above". Unless there's a sheet metal identification tag under one of the screws attaching the air horn to the body of the carb, it's impossible to get an accurate ID of a Rochester B. A generic rebuilding kit, a new float, and a good cleanup of all the hard parts in a solution of dishwashing detergent and boiling water should clean up the carb you have to be as good as, or better than some unknown "rebuilt" carb. The boiling detergent softens the deposits in the passageways, and a rinse with boiling water followed by massive amounts of compressed air through all the passageways to blow all the crud out will put the majority of carburetors back into good condition. Look up Jon G's method of straightening a warped air horn that makes a lot of the Rochester carbs run too rich due to vacuum leaks.
"The ABC's of carburetion- - - -"Always Buy Carter"!
Jerry
