The locking pin is not really tapered (circumference is the same) but has a flat taper cut on one side that mates with the flat on the king pin. As you draw the locking pin into the hole, the taper draws tight on the king pin, locking it into place.

I agree with Carl and Kevin. Knock the king pin back to it’s original position to relieve any additional pressure you imposed upon it, then try driving the pin out with your punch and a mallet. You can clamp a vice grip on the punch to move your hand away from danger.

On the next side, thread a nut on to the locking pin, so there is only a 1/16” or less space between the nut and the axle, thread a second nut on top and lock them together (double nutted). This will allow you to get the pin moving without deforming the thread. Once the first nut contacts the axle remove, the second nut, back the first nut out to the end, then tap the pin out the rest of the way. If it still takes too much effort repeat the process with the two nuts.

Bucking the axle with a large piece of steel (as Carl suggested), will make the blows that much more effective! A large sledge (12-16 lb) works really well, but you will need a friend.

Good Luck!

Last edited by Phak1; 07/27/2021 12:04 PM.

Phil
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1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: β€˜59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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