I've joined in posts when members wanted to ask about Runtz. Examined how they are built and helped explain how they work and so on. That was because folks wanted to discuss Runtz. It's all in the search function.
Now we are discussing how they fail and all kinds of ways of reducing 12V to 6V. Worrying about the heat.
I try very hard to answer the question and stay with the poster.
Tiny, you specifically asked how to convert a gauge without using a resistor/reducer. You said you knew all about those components.
I did answer the question. You didn't want a reducer, you didn't want to buy a converted gauge, it seemed you wanted to know if others had converted their own.
Then you changed to saying you tried a Runtz, it failed and we are off to the races again.
Buoymaker said "Hey Guys".,,,,,,,trying to say what I'm saying now. Then he gave up and joined the crowd. If you have decided to use a reducer, and this goes for everyone else on these questions, why don't folks buy the $6 one from Classic Trucks? I would really like to know. This is a low tech issue. There is no worry about heat whatsoever. Everyone knows resistors create heat. Like the one on heater switches. If a rheostat is used, that is just a variable resistor. The one Classic sells for higher loads than a gas gauge has a heat sink.
Can we please stop talking about Runtz units and all the other clones. If the "reducer" at Classic trucks does not work, please advise. If it does work, buy it. Why would anyone want to build one for a gas gauge? The Classic one is probably an axial lead resistor, the others are solid state. Whatever. The Runtz style accuracy and built-in thermal overload is not needed. Spike protection is provide by direct wiring from battery and a fuse. Too much technical talk about a gas gauge.
