| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,186 Posts1,057,317 Members48,469 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | Looks like the original heater switch broke and someone added a toggle. You only need one switch. Test the original to see if it works and replace or use the toggle. Either way it's just an on-off switch for the fan motor and the wiring is:
1. Wire from the "ON" terminal of the ignition switch to one side of heater switch.
2. Wire from other side of heater switch to motor.
3. Probably a good idea to have an inline fuse between ignition and heater switch. 10 amp.
4. I believe the original switch was a variable resistor type. Increasing speed of motor as you turn knob.
5. I've seen talk of a toggle switch used for the defrost. Probably referring to deluxe vs Standard. Not sure about that info.
The "ON" terminal of the ignition switch is the one that is only hot when ignition is on.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
| | |
|
|
| |
