On the top corner right next to the window appears to be stress cracking in the paint indicating that the rain gutter is pushed in quite a bit and again shown with the separation of the seam. That would be my first place to pull. I don’t think the stud welder is going to be able to pull that out and I think you would be better off welding a 16-18 gauge plate with a hole to put a hook to do the pull. The plate needs to be 3-4” long welded right on the panel edge/seam at the deepest part of the dent. Don’t go crazy with the welds, a few 1/2” welds will suffice. Weld it only on one side so it can easily be removed by hitting it with a hammer on the other side of the welds, folding it over and snapping the welds. If you don’t have a solid point to attach a come-a-long pull the truck next to a good sized tree and use that to attach your pulling device. Use a nylon sling so you don’t damage the tree. Another caution you probably already know but I wouldn't feel right not warning you. Don’t stand inline with you pull. Always to the side in case it breaks off. Once you get you seam out where it belongs, that should close up most of that gap and the rest should fall into place using your new stud welder. Do your pulls a little at a time while tapping the high spots to release the stress.

The gutter may have to come off as well as removing the window. The window appears to be cracked, Did the dent cause it to crack?

Access to the back would definitely help but I assume it has an inner panel that prevents that. Is the inside panel also pushed in? Can we get a picture of the inside?

I also agree with klhansen and would like to hear MP&C’s opinion.

Last edited by Phak1; 12/27/2020 2:15 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum