Back before the days of Plastigauge the rod shimming procedure was to sandwich a small piece of .002" shim stock between the rod cap and the crankshaft (about 1/4" wide) and add/remove shims until you can turn the crankshaft with a firm pull on the flywheel. Remove the checking shim and move it to the next rod. "Rinse and repeat"! That procedure is a lot more accurate than the "tap it with a hammer" method. New shims appear to be a solid piece about .015" thick- - - - -they're not, but the stack of .0005" and .001" shims are stuck together very tightly, and you'll need something like an X-acto knife to peel away individual layers. It's OK to use one less shim layer on one side than the other if you need to split the difference between adding and removing an equal amount on both sides of a rod cap.
Jerry

"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!