I'd suggest you do some further research and/or measuring of the rear axle ratio. A 4.11 gear behind a 216 engine in a 1 1/2 ton truck isn't realistic. A 5-something ratio or one approaching 6:1 is a lot more likely. If it's got 22" wheels, that's also been changed from the 20" wheels it probably came with when it was new, probably looking for more road speed at the expense of performance on hills without downshifting. Unless you're an expert at adjusting the oil clearance on Babbit connecting rods, your daily driving is going to end up with a noisy engine pretty quickly, followed by serious rod knocks. I've been working with Babbit rods for over 50 years, and I would not attempt to drive a spray-oiler engine on a daily basis in a 1/2 ton truck, let alone a big rig. Then there's the "crash box" transmission- - - -how good are you at shifting up and down in a traffic situation with a non-synchronized transmission?
There are some engine and drivetrain upgrades you can do without sacrificing the "original" appearance to the casual observer. To anyone experienced at looking at vintage vehicles they will stand out like a polar bear in a coal pile. A 261 engine, a SM-420 transmission, and possibly a later model higher ratio rear axle and a Hydrovac brake booster for the stock brake system, or swapping the COMPLETE brake system from a newer truck would be some options. Trying to do half-donkey upgrades to a brake system by installing a bunch of mismatched parts is deadly dangerous, and ought to be illegal for anyone with less experience than an automotive engineer.
Just a few suggestions and observations from a "seasoned" wrench jockey. I'm 74 years old, and the guy in the middle of 5 generations of mechanics- - - -from my grandfather to my grandson.
Jerry
