I gave a friend a piece of 3/4" fintube (like for hydronic baseboard heating) I had laying around that he wanted to use for that purpose. More surface area in contact with the air means better heat transfer.
I've also seen a youtube video where a guy made an aftercooler with I think 4" steel pipe with multiple runs of smaller pipe welded inside it and water running between them. While it probably worked like a champ, it was WAY overkill for a home setup. He had 3 or 4 of the 4" chambers at about 4 ft high each inline. And he probably spent more on the aftercooler (including time and materials) than his compressor was worth.

Rabaut's setup would definitely wring lots of water out of the air. If you want a step up, use fintube instead of just plain copper pipe. Not much more expensive.

Guys in real hot climates might want to consider a tube-in tube setup with water cooling. The idea is to get the air temperature back below the dew point so the water condenses out. Commercial setups use either a refrigerated air dryer or an absorbtion type (usually a dual chamber setup that switches over to regenerate the media after it's absorbed all the moisture it can.)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.