| Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | An engine hoist through the passenger door after removing the 'tin' floorboards will take care of moving the trans back after removing the driveshaft. If a torque tube, the whole works needs to be moved back. No need to remove trans unless it needs attention. Lower two bolts(3/4" hex wrench) might remove from inside bellhousing. Loosen clutch pressure bolts one at a time while rotating flywheel, last one requires attention to not drop whole works. Inspect pressure plate and disc for unusual wear pattern. Get new pilot bearing and new throwout bearing. Should come with plastic realignment tool, or a spare trans input shaft will work.
Insert pilot bearing, ask if not know how. Place new clutch disc upon flywheel, only goes one way, insert tool to hold disc in place, insert throwout bearing in pressure plate fingers, and clutch release arm, several configurations exist, while starting one bolt to hold it all in place, continue to insert bolts in alternating holes. When all started, tighten alternating bolts a little at a time, soon will start to take up clutch spring(normal) until all tight, blue locktite useful, remove tool, making sure it easily comes out. If tight, loosen pressure plate bolts and tighten again maintaining easy movement. Reinsert trans making sure release bearing and release arm stay aligned.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
|