Here's a couple of photos that will help you out. You're finding out what everyone who touches that part of the project knows - the repop parts don't ever fit correctly. The flange on the lower part of the kick panel goes between the A-pillar and the floor panel, so that the bend on the flange matches the bend on the floor panel. I have massaged my passenger side kick panel to fit by reforming the front edge. I found that the kick panels I got from Jim Carter fit well back at the A-pillar, but the lower front didn't fit the floor panel, and the curve needed to be changed to meet the A-pillar and inner-to-outer cowl piece. I'm holding off welding in the driver's side floor panel till I get the kick panel fitted. The first photo is the unmolested drivers side kick panel in place for fitting and the modified passenger side next to it for comparison. The last photo is the passenger side kick panel in place (not welded in yet.) I hear you about having left-over stuff. I also bought the shorty kick panels, but they didn't fit that well at the floor either, and because I needed to go up near the top, I would have had to put a weld joint mid-way, I decided to use the taller panels. I reviewed Woody's pics and he had the same issues. Some good info there.
Good luck.
Last edited by klhansen; 05/25/202010:43 PM. Reason: fixed an oops
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
