If you have access to a valve grinder you can resurface the rocker tips to make them flat. Sure saves on feeler gauges. I have ground them flat again (actually radiused when viewed looking at the shaft hole) using a bench belt/disc sander with an adjustable rest for the work-peice. You can have the rockers re-bushed too. I don't know if that's cheaper than buying reconditioned rockers but I'll bet someone on the site will have bought some recently. But if you do all that work you still have to come up with shafts if yours are worn. You can buy lash caps for the valve stems. They come in different sizes and thicknesses. They can correct the valve train geometry when using high lift cams. I have used them on my Norton motorcycle to good effect. They are harder than the valve stems.

On the matter of aluminum rocker stands remember that aluminum expands faster than steel when heated. So, the valve lash will increase as the engine heats up. If you set the valve lash hot and running then as the lash decreases when the engine is cold they will be less noisy.

1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.