There is a little low hanging fruit you can mess with here. On the carb issue, I myself am not a fan of the single weber. Pairs yes, but a single in place of the stock one bbl no.But you are stuck with what you have I guess. Also, I have generally found that the ported vacuum advance port on the weber is not sufficient to actually allow the stock 235 vacuum advance to work properly. So just asking, how many turns out on your mixture screw are you on the weber and how may turns out on your idle screw. The webers are very sensitive in that regard and may require an idle air jet change.
Plugs, which are you using? The 235s use an extended tip type. I have always run champions (43 years). J12YC, J14YC or the resistor versions RJ12YC and RJ14YC.
Is the clamp on the distributor tight? Is the bolt on the octane selector plate tight and is the hash mark on the octane selector set to zero with the hash mark on the distributor pad? Really what you are checking is whether the distributor is moving (it should move when the advance moves it) but not because its loose. Also, can you confirm that the diaphragm in the vacuum advance canister is holding and not ruptured?
Spark plug wires, take a look and make sure they are not laying across one another and cross firing.
Is the firewall ignition resistor in place and wired correctly to the coil?
Just a couple of things to check and get out of the way. Now if you don't know how to do some of this your self, now is a great time to buy a few basic tools, roll your sleeves up and dive in. Lots of help here.
Last edited by Dragsix; 01/08/2020 2:57 PM.
