The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop My 235 revved, died, won't start, and no coil fire or rotor spin.

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I feel your pain... If your rockers aren't rockin' when you crank the engine, prepare to roll up your sleeves and get dirty.

It's not a hard job to do but you have to make sure you take it slow and get everything just right when you put it back together. While the gear change can be done with the cam in the block--like HRL has said--I think it might be wise to just pull the cam rather than accidentally pop the freeze plug behind the cam and have to pull the whole engine. I pulled the cam and in the process found 3 lifters that needed replaced--you never know what you're gonna find!

I was lucky and had access to some homemade tools that made the job easy. Scratch that--I have access to a father-in-law who's a retired machinist who loves old machinery and had nothing better to do than turn up some homemade tools that made the job easy! We actually made a drill and tap guide to thread the end of the crank, allowing me to attach a threaded rod to the crank to push the crank gear and balancer back on instead of hammering them on. I probably should have taken pictures of the process but it was 88 degrees, I was tired, and I just wanted to get it done. After they were installed a retaining bolt fills the hole and gives added assurance that the balancer will stay in place.

The worst part about the whole situation is that you're gonna need to pull the head--I can almost guarantee you'll find nicely stamped intake valve sized circles in the soot on top of your pistons... Be prepared for new valves and probably new push rods. There's no point in trying to straighten any bent parts; once they get hot again they'll move all over. I got all my parts from the local Napa; all Sealed Power. 6 push rods, 6 intake valves, timing gear set and gasket set was $345.