jorb, I mirror your thoughts about my being able to pull that front bushing with that second one butted up against it. I don't know how I was able to do it unless it was just the pressure of the bearing pullers fingers pressing INSIDE the bushing. I've never done this before (you can probably tell) and on my first attempt at removing that bushing, the fingers did NOT grab it. I could see that the puller was moving back out, but the bushing was not moving. So, I drove it back in and the second time I smacked that lever that expands the fingers several times with a hammer. In fact, I clamped vise-grips onto that lever and smacked the vise-grips really hard several times. After that, the bushing came out. So, I may have just had enough pressure on the fingers that they "stuck" instead of actually being able to open behind the bushing. I went back and measured, and that second bushing is sitting inside the tube the exact same distance that the removed bushing is wide. So, it appears it was butted up against it.

Having slept on it, I think I might be able to modify my bushing puller to do the job. I think I will try and cut it in two, as far back as I can (right where the hollow section becomes solid). Then, if I hope to find a piece of thin pipe, or conduit, that will be a slip fit over the puller. Cut the pipe/conduit the length of a bit longer than the length of a bushing. Slip one end of the pipe/conduit over the solid part of the puller and tack weld or drill/tap and install a few screws. Do the same with the hollow end of the puller. This will in effect simply lengthen the puller the length of the pipe/conduit.

At this point, that seems to be the easiest and cheapest route. What do you think? If that fails, I will consider cutting the slot or calling the bushing puller folks. Thanks to everyone for all the help.


'52 Chevy 1/2 ton running original gear