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10 members (farmallb, Otto Skorzeny, moparguy, Oswald, Hush, Opelika Tom, RoadsScholar, Samantha, 2 invisible),
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Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,089 Posts1,055,988 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2017 Posts: 330 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2017 Posts: 330 | When I pull wheels and I have concrete to work on, I used a pallet jack under the wheel/tire assembly. The tire sits across the pallet jack and can be pulled straight away from the truck with the tires and all. No need to pull the tire off first then manhandle the hub or drum, its all one piece. Works well with singles or duals. I use a bottle jack and stands under the axle to fine adjust the height and for safety. Chock the wheels still on the ground. I built a 2x4 frame to fit under the tires with large casters on it if I have to work on rough asphalt. I put down a sheet of plywood for the casters to roll on. That works fine too.
Not sure why torquing is necessary, I tighten the inside nut till all play is gone, then back it off a flat or so, till the lock ring fits. Then tighten the outer nut as tight as it will go using the wheel as a lever. They can probably be tightened tighter than they ever should be this way. I do all this by myself, no helper needed.
Mac :{)
1962 K10 short step side, much modified for rally 1969 T50 fire truck, almost nos, needs a few things
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