I had a noise in my rear end and decided this was a good time to do a 3.55 R&R
While doing the R&R on my 1953 3100, I have a couple comments:
Before removing the assembly from the torque tube, I decided to check back lash, it was at .030, way to much why? Time will tell here (pic1)
When removing the driveshaft and pinion assembly, I noticed where the noise in my rear was coming from, missing are 6 ball bearings in the front (thick) pinion bearing (see pic 2),
Purchased my 3.55 ring and pinion from Mothertrucker, price was killer if you contact him personally and pay him outside of ebay. He includes shipping and I had the goods in 2 days usps priority flat rate.
My torque tube carrier was stamped LU825 ,so one could infer it was a late Aug. 1953 casting. The Mother trucker pinion gear is .25" in diameter greater than the 4.11 I took out.
When assembling the gears in the carrier, I stopped 1/2" short of fully seating the rear pinion bearing because the pinion gear teeth were starting to contact the carrier. I ended up pulling the assembly back out and clearancing the carrier .004 in a small spot 3/4" by 1/2". It appears the mold used in the casting process left a little more thickness in this area. A dremmel with a cutter bit did the trick in about a few minutes. (pic3)
When installing the entire assembly in the torque tube housing, i tried dropping the assembly straight down vertically, like others have done. I couldn't get the last 1/2" to seat the rear pinion bearing, the sleeve that cinches the front bearing was getting cocked in the housing. Deve talks about super gluing this to the front bearing so it feeds in the housing straight, but I didn't try this. What I did was take some 500 grit emery paper and wd40 and clean up the outer ring of the sleeve, inserted the assembly vetically to engage the front bearing then removed the assembly from its vertical position to horizontal position in the vise and I was able to position the sleeve through the three holes where the retainer bolts go, while tapping the end of the pinion with a plastic hammer. Everything slid in nicely then. One thing, do not tap on the pinion with a hammer unless it is a plastic head, it only takes little taps, if you feel you need to get a bigger hammer out -it is the wrong decision, it is a semi press/slide fit.
My setup had a .015 pinion shim in it on the factory install and I ended up adding a .008 to it for a total of .023 for proper pattern. (pic 4 for coastside of pattern, drive side picture was blurry) (pic5, final backlash set at 5-1/2 thousands)
The front bushing in the torque tube required me to rent a slide hammer and pilot bushing head from the parts store to remove, it was a stubborn bugger to get out. I didn't bother with the inner bushing or seal, the Oakie bushing pressed in and there is enough room to leave the inner bushing and seal in. Was very happy with that design.
The gears drive out beautifully and quiet. I can now cruise out on the interstate at 60-65mph no problem, Plenty of umph with my 235 and bed empty.
Good luck with yours, recommend a press for installing the side bearings on the case and rear bearing tapped on easy on the pinion but front bearing required pressing, do not hammer on your bearings.
Check out Deve's install blog, it is excellent and he spent a lot of time putting it together to aid in the help of stovebolters.
http://devestechnet.com/Home/DifferentialOverhaul
